My adventures are often driven by the quest to find authentic and unforgettable dining experiences. On my recent trip to Edinburgh, I was delighted to discover that this historic city is a true culinary paradise. From traditional Scottish fare to innovative modern cuisine, Edinburgh has it all. I spent several days sampling some of the city’s best local restaurants and indulging in a variety of dishes that highlighted the incredible diversity of Scotland’s food scene.
The Witchery by the Castle: A Feast for the Senses
My culinary adventure began with a visit to The Witchery by the Castle, a restaurant that is as legendary as Edinburgh Castle itself. Located just a stone’s throw away from the castle, this gothic-inspired restaurant is housed in a building dating back to the 16th century. The dark, atmospheric interiors with their flickering candlelight and rich, opulent decor made me feel like I had stepped into a different time.
For my meal, I started with a traditional Scottish appetizer—Haggis, Neeps & Tatties. Now, I’ll admit that haggis wasn’t something I was particularly excited to try, but when in Scotland, right? The haggis was surprisingly delicious. It had a rich, savory flavor, and when paired with the creamy mashed potatoes (tatties) and turnips (neeps), it became a perfectly balanced dish. The peppery spice in the haggis was complemented by the sweetness of the root vegetables, and I quickly understood why this dish is a Scottish staple.
For the main course, I opted for the Highland venison, served with roasted root vegetables and a red wine reduction. The meat was tender and cooked to perfection, with a slightly gamey flavor that was enhanced by the earthy sweetness of the roasted vegetables. The red wine reduction added a luxurious depth to the dish, and the entire meal felt like a celebration of Scotland’s rich culinary heritage.
The Witchery is on the pricier side, but it’s worth every penny if you’re looking for a truly special dining experience in Edinburgh. It’s not just a meal—it’s an event, and one that I won’t forget anytime soon.
Oink: A Hog Roast Sandwich You’ll Never Forget
After the fine dining experience at The Witchery, I was craving something a bit more casual, and that’s when I discovered Oink. This small, unassuming eatery specializes in one thing: hog roast sandwiches. As someone who loves slow-cooked meat, I knew I had to give this place a try.
The concept at Oink is simple. You choose your size (wee, oink, or grunter), your bread (white, brown, or a wrap), and your toppings (apple sauce, haggis, stuffing, or cheese). I went for the “oink” size on a white bun with apple sauce and stuffing. Watching the staff carve the succulent roast pork right in front of me was enough to make my mouth water.
The first bite was heavenly. The pork was incredibly tender, with crispy crackling adding the perfect amount of crunch. The sweetness of the apple sauce balanced the savory meat, and the stuffing added a comforting, herby flavor that tied everything together. It was messy, it was indulgent, and it was absolutely delicious. Oink is the kind of place you’ll want to return to again and again, especially if you’re a fan of hearty, no-fuss food.
The Scran & Scallie: Modern Scottish Pub Fare
For a more contemporary take on Scottish cuisine, I headed to The Scran & Scallie, a gastropub located in the Stockbridge neighborhood. Co-owned by Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin, The Scran & Scallie offers a modern twist on traditional pub fare, with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients and seasonal produce.
The atmosphere here is cozy and welcoming, with a rustic-chic decor that makes you feel right at home. I decided to try their signature dish—Fish & Chips. This may sound like a simple choice, but at The Scran & Scallie, it’s anything but ordinary. The fish, freshly caught and fried to golden perfection, was flaky and moist on the inside while being delightfully crispy on the outside. It was served with chunky chips (fries) that were perfectly cooked—crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. Accompanied by homemade tartar sauce and a side of mushy peas, this was easily one of the best fish and chips I’ve ever had.
For dessert, I couldn’t resist trying the Sticky Toffee Pudding, and I’m so glad I did. The pudding was warm, soft, and drenched in a rich toffee sauce, with a dollop of vanilla ice cream on top. The combination of warm and cold, sweet and buttery, made every bite pure indulgence. The Scran & Scallie is the perfect place to experience modern Scottish comfort food in a relaxed setting.
Timberyard: A Unique Fine Dining Experience
On the more upscale end of Edinburgh’s dining scene is Timberyard, a restaurant that takes farm-to-table dining to a whole new level. Set in a converted warehouse, Timberyard has a minimalist, industrial-chic vibe with exposed brick walls, high ceilings, and large wooden tables.
The menu here is a celebration of local, seasonal ingredients, and the dishes are artfully presented. I opted for the tasting menu, which allowed me to sample a variety of dishes, each one more creative than the last. One of the standout courses was the smoked mackerel, served with horseradish, beetroot, and dill. The smoky flavor of the fish was complemented by the sharpness of the horseradish and the earthy sweetness of the beetroot. It was a beautifully balanced dish that showcased the freshness of the ingredients.
Another highlight was the roasted lamb, which was tender and juicy, served with a rich jus and seasonal vegetables. The attention to detail in both flavor and presentation was evident in every course, making this meal a truly memorable experience.
Timberyard is perfect for those who appreciate creative, high-quality cuisine in a laid-back yet sophisticated setting. It’s a bit of a splurge, but if you’re a food lover, it’s worth it.
The Kitchin: Michelin-Starred Perfection
No trip to Edinburgh would be complete without visiting The Kitchin, the Michelin-starred restaurant run by celebrity chef Tom Kitchin. Located in the Leith district, The Kitchin is known for its “From Nature to Plate” philosophy, which emphasizes seasonal, locally sourced ingredients.
I opted for the seasonal tasting menu, and from the first course to the last, I was blown away by the creativity and precision of each dish. One of the standout courses was the hand-dived Orkney scallop, which was served in its shell with a delicate foam and seaweed. The scallop was cooked to perfection—sweet, tender, and bursting with flavor. It was a true celebration of Scotland’s coastal bounty.
Another highlight was the venison Wellington, a dish that was both visually stunning and incredibly delicious. The venison was cooked rare and wrapped in a flaky, buttery pastry, served with a rich, gamey sauce. It was a perfect example of Tom Kitchin’s ability to elevate traditional dishes to new heights.
The service at The Kitchin was impeccable, and the attention to detail was evident in every aspect of the meal. This was truly one of the best dining experiences I’ve had, and it’s a must-visit for anyone who appreciates fine dining.
Honorable Mentions: More Must-Try Restaurants in Edinburgh
While I couldn’t possibly visit every restaurant in Edinburgh, here are a few more that came highly recommended by locals and fellow travelers:
- Ondine: If you’re a seafood lover, Ondine is the place to be. Located just off the Royal Mile, this upscale seafood restaurant offers fresh, sustainable seafood dishes with a modern twist. The oysters are a particular highlight.
- Café St Honoré: This charming French bistro tucked away in the New Town is known for its farm-to-table approach and seasonal Scottish ingredients. The menu changes regularly, but you can always expect hearty, comforting dishes with a French flair.
- Aizle: Aizle is a modern restaurant with a constantly changing menu based on the freshest ingredients available. There’s no set menu here—diners are served a surprise tasting menu, which makes every visit a unique experience.
- Dishoom: For something a little different, Dishoom offers an incredible menu of Bombay-style Indian cuisine. The rich, flavorful curries and beautifully spiced dishes are the perfect way to warm up on a chilly Edinburgh evening.
Dining in Edinburgh
Edinburgh’s food scene is as diverse and exciting as the city itself. Whether you’re in the mood for traditional Scottish fare, modern gastropub dishes, or fine dining, you’ll find something to suit your taste. My culinary journey through Edinburgh was a true delight, and I left the city with a deeper appreciation for Scotland’s rich food culture.
